Announcer: AMERICAN PUBLIC TELEVISION PRESENTS THE SPLENDORS OF THE WORLD IN THE LIFELIKE REALITY OF HIGH DEFINITION TELEVISION.

HI, I'M RUDY MAXA.

THIS TIME WE'RE IN THE VERY HEART OF SPAIN, REVELING IN THE PASSIONS OF MADRID.

FROM SPECTACULAR PAINTINGS TO THE FERVENT BEAT OF FLAMENCO, THIS IS THE PINNACLE OF SPANISH CULTURE.

NEXT, IT'S MADRID, ON "SMART TRAVELS."

Narrator: MAJOR CORPORATE SUPPORT FOR "SMART TRAVELS" IS PROVIDED BY EXPEDIA.COM, A TRAVEL WEB SITE THAT OFFERS TRAVELERS A VARIETY OF WAYS TO CREATE THE TRIP THEY'RE LOOKING FOR, INCLUDING FLIGHTS, HOTELS, AND VACATION PACKAGES.

EXPEDIA.COM.

DON'T JUST TRAVEL.

TRAVEL RIGHT.

CAPTIONING MADE POSSIBLE BY U.S.

DEPARTMENT OF EDUCATION Narrator: "SMART TRAVELS" IS A GRAND TOUR OF THE OLD WORLD, THE PEOPLE, PLACES, SIGHTS, AND DISTINCTLY EUROPEAN FLAVORS.

OUR HOST IS TRAVEL WRITER AND COLUMNIST RUDY MAXA, PUBLIC RADIO'S ORIGINAL SAVVY TRAVELER.

NOW, TIPS, TRIPS, AND SECRET PLACES ON "SMART TRAVELS."

Maxa, voice-over: THEY SAY THAT THE PEOPLE OF MADRID WORSHIP THE SKY.

AT 2,000 FEET ABOVE SEA LEVEL, THIS CITY IS HIGHER THAN ANY OTHER CAPITAL IN EUROPE.

THROUGH RAREFIED AIR, THE COBALT SKY HOVERS ABOVE AN EXPANSE OF URBAN AVENUES.

IT CREATES AN INTENSITY THAT COMPELLED GREAT SPANISH PAINTERS TO COMMIT IT TO CANVAS, AND VISITORS TO MARVEL AT ITS POWER.

THE CITY'S UNOFFICIAL MOTTO, "DE MADRID AL CIELO," ROUGHLY TRANSLATES "FROM MADRID TO HEAVEN."

AND THIS IS CERTAINLY A PLACE THAT STRIVES FOR GREAT HEIGHTS.

IT'S AN EXUBERANT CAPITAL THAT DELIGHTS IN CHRONIC SLEEP DEPRIVATION.

IT'S A SWASHBUCKLING, "DO-AS-YOU-PLEASE" CULTURE THAT'S PASSIONATE ABOUT MODERN STYLE, AND EVEN PROUDER OF GRAND TRADITION.

MADRID IS THE CENTER OF SPAIN, BOTH FIGURATIVELY AND LITERALLY.

IT WAS IN THE 16th CENTURY, AT THE HEIGHT OF SPAIN'S GOLDEN AGE, THAT KING PHILIP II CHOSE MADRID AS THE CAPITAL OF HIS KINGDOM.

IT WAS REALLY A QUIRK OF FATE-- PHILIP SELECTED MADRID BECAUSE IT WAS AT THE GEOGRAPHICAL CENTER OF THE COUNTRY.

AND WHAT WAS ONCE A SMALL, NONDESCRIPT TOWN SOON BLOSSOMED INTO THE NERVE CENTER OF A VAST, FABULOUSLY RICH EMPIRE.

WHILE MADRID IS THE CENTER OF SPAIN, THE PUERTA DEL SOL, OR "GATE OF THE SUN" IS THE CENTER OF MADRID.

AND FOR HUNDREDS OF YEARS IT'S BEEN ITS SPIRITUAL CENTER AS WELL.

THIS IS ONE OF THE BUSIEST SQUARES IN THE CITY AND A POPULAR GATHERING PLACE FOR LOCALS.

FRIENDS MEET FRIENDS AT THIS BEAR AND TREE STATUE, A SYMBOL TAKEN FROM MADRID'S MEDIEVAL COAT OF ARMS.

AND THIS KILOMETER ZERO MARKER IS THE POINT AT WHICH ALL SPANISH ROADS AND HIGHWAYS BEGIN.

OLD MADRID STRETCHES OUT FROM PUERTA DEL SOL, MAKING A GRAND PROMENADE THROUGH REGAL SQUARES AND SPARKLING FOUNTAINS, RECALLING THIS COUNTRY'S FLAMBOYANT HISTORY.

MY FRIEND ANA AND I ARE TAKING A STROLL THROUGH THE CITY'S PAST.

IN 1492, SPAIN'S CATHOLIC KINGS FINALLY DROVE THE LAST OF THE RULING MOORS FROM POWER.

THAT WAS, OF COURSE, THE SAME YEAR THAT COLUMBUS LANDED IN AMERICA.

HIS TRIP LAID THE GROUNDWORK FOR SPAIN'S GOLDEN AGE, AN ERA OF PREVIOUSLY UNHEARD OF WEALTH.

THE CATHOLIC RULERS FIERCELY GUARDED THEIR GRIP ON SPAIN, AND HERE IN PLAZA MAYOR, THE NOTORIOUS SPANISH INQUISITION ONCE CONDUCTED TRIALS AND EXECUTIONS.

THE ROYAL PALACE OF MADRID IS 2,000 ROOMS OF IMPERIAL LAVISHNESS THAT SERVES AS THE OFFICIAL RESIDENCE OF THE KING OF SPAIN.

WHILE THE KING DOESN'T ACTUALLY LIVE HERE, HE DOES USE IT FOR CEREMONIES.

ALL THE WAY BACK IN THE 9th CENTURY, THE MOORISH INVADERS BUILT A DEFENSIVE FORTRESS ON THIS SITE.

LATER, THE CATHOLIC KINGS CONSTRUCTED A ROYAL RESIDENCE HERE.

THANKS TO SOME STRATEGIC MARRIAGES WITH OTHER EUROPEAN NOBILITY, THE SPANISH ROYALTY WOUND UP AS PART OF THE POWERFUL HAPSBURG FAMILY AND GREATLY INCREASED ITS INFLUENCE ACROSS EUROPE.

DURING SPAIN'S HEYDAY, VAST RIVERS OF GOLD AND RICHES FLOWED IN FROM THE NEW WORLD COLONIES.

WHEN THE OLD CASTLE BURNED DOWN ON CHRISTMAS EVE 1734, KING PHILIP THE V ORDERED A GRAND NEW PALACE BUILT.

OVER TIME, FREQUENT EUROPEAN WARS AND REBELLIONS COST SPAIN TERRITORY, PRESTIGE AND WEALTH.

BUT THE PALACE'S RICH DECORATION AND SUPERB PAINTINGS REFLECT THIS COUNTRY'S FORMER STATUS AS THE CENTER OF A GREAT EMPIRE.

AH, MADRID AND ITS PAINTINGS.... FOR SOME PEOPLE, THIS CITY IS SYNONYMOUS WITH GREAT ART.

A PERK OF BEING AMONG THE MOST POWERFUL KINGDOMS IN EUROPE IS THE ABILITY TO AMASS A TRULY SUPERB ART COLLECTION.

SPAIN'S GLEAMING ROYAL COURT ATTRACTED PAINTERS IN SWARMS.

AND WITH HABSBURG CONNECTIONS AND NEW WORLD RICHES, THE SPANISH ROYALTY WERE LIKE KIDS IN AN ART CANDY STORE.

THE PRADO IS SPAIN'S FINEST MUSEUM AND ONE OF THE BEST IN EUROPE.

IT BRAGS OF MORE THAN 3,000 PAINTINGS, A LEGACY OF ONE OF THE WORLD'S GREAT GLOBAL POWERS.

THE COLLECTION FEATURES A DAUNTING ARRAY OF ITALIAN MASTERPIECES INCLUDING TITIAN'S "CHARLES THE V AT MUHLBERG," BOTTICELLI'S "STORY OF NASTAGIO DEGLI ONESTI," AND TINTORETTO'S "WASHING OF THE FEET."

THE FLEMISH ARTISTS ARE EQUALLY IMPRESSIVE WITH HIERONYMOUS BOSCH'S "GARDEN OF EARTHLY DELIGHTS," AND VAN DER WEYDEN'S "DESCENT FROM THE CROSS," BUT THERE ARE 3 NAMES THAT ARE MOST OFTEN ASSOCIATED WITH THE PRADO AND THE GLORY DAYS OF SPANISH PAINTING.

THEY ARE: EL GRECO, VELAZQUEZ, AND GOYA.

EL GRECO, OR THE "THE GREEK," WAS BORN IN CRETE AND MOVED TO SPAIN IN THE MID 1570s.

THE ARTIST SOON BECAME INTERESTED IN MANNERISM, THAT STYLE OF PAINTING THAT WAS A REACTION AGAINST THE PERFECT PROPORTIONS OF THE HIGH RENAISSANCE.

IN HIS WORKS, EL GRECO DELIBERATELY DISTORTED THE SCALE AND SPATIAL RELATIONSHIPS BETWEEN FIGURES.

VELAZQUEZ MOVED TO MADRID IN 1622 AND ESTABLISHED HIMSELF AS THE FOREMOST ARTIST OF THE ROYAL COURT.

CONSIDERED BY MANY TO BE SPAIN'S GREATEST PAINTER, HE WORKED WITH EXTREME PRECISION AND HAD THE ABILITY TO CAPTURE LIGHT WITH AN ALMOST PHOTOGRAPHIC QUALITY.

HERE, IN THE "TRIUMPH OF BACCHUS," HE SHOWS THE GOD OF WINE CAVORTING WITH SOME VERY MORTAL DRINKING PARTNERS.

IT'S BEEN SAID THAT GOYA, WORKING IN THE MID-18th CENTURY, BREATHED NEW LIFE INTO SPANISH PAINTING.

AFTER SUFFERING AN UNKNOWN ILLNESS THAT LEFT HIM DEAF, GOYA BECAME INTROSPECTIVE AND REVEALED A DEEP DISILLUSIONMENT WITH HUMANITY.

"THE THIRD OF MAY" DEPICTS A BLOODY INCIDENT IN WHICH NAPOLEON'S INVADING FRENCH SOLDIERS KILLED SPANISH CIVILIANS.

IT REMAINS ONE OF GOYA'S MOST MOVING WORKS.

BESIDES THE PRADO, MADRID HOSTS SEVERAL OTHER TERRIFIC MUSEUMS.

THE REINA SOFIA OFFERS UP AN OUTSTANDING COLLECTION OF MODERN ART, AND THE ECLECTIC THYSSEN BORNEMISZA RUNS THE GAMUT FROM CLASSICAL TO MODERN.

BUT IF YOU'RE INTERESTED IN A MORE INTIMATE GLIMPSE OF A SPANISH MASTER, HEAD TO THE NORTHWEST SIDE OF THE CITY.

IN THE HERMITAGE OF SAN ANTONIO DE LA FLORIDA, YOU'LL FIND ONE GOYA'S MORE REMARKABLE WORKS.

THE LAVISHLY BEAUTIFUL FRESCO COVERING THE BUILDING'S DOME AND CUPOLA HAS BEEN CALLED GOYA'S "SISTINE CHAPEL."

THE ARTIST TOILED FROM MORNING TO NIGHT FOR 16 WEEKS TO CREATE THIS MASTERPIECE.

IN HIS DEPICTIONS OF THE MIRACLES OF ST.

ANTHONY, GOYA IRRITATED LOCAL NOBLES BY INCLUDING ELEMENTS OF COMMON STREET LIFE, SUCH AS BEGGARS, PROSTITUTES AND STONEWORKERS.

BUT WHEN KING CHARLES THE IV APPROVED THE PAINTING, THE REST OF THE NOBILITY FELL IN LINE.

AFTER GOYA'S DEATH, THE ARTIST'S TOMB WAS APPROPRIATELY PLACED HERE.

THERE WAS A TIME WHEN TOURISTS THOUGHT THAT THE PRADO WAS JUST ABOUT THE ONLY REASON TO COME TO MADRID.

SURE, THAT GREAT MUSEUM ALONE IS WORTH THE TRIP.

BUT THERE IS MUCH, MUCH MORE TO MADRID.

THIS IS ONE THE LIVELIEST, MOST FUN-LOVING CITIES IN ALL OF EUROPE.

MADRID'S WEALTH OF RESTAURANTS INCLUDES SOME GREAT OLD TRADITIONAL OFFERINGS.

LAS CUEVAS DE LUIS CANDELAS, OR THE CAVES OF LUIS CANDELAS, IS ONE OF MADRID'S OLDEST TAVERNS AND IS NAMED AFTER A FAMOUS BANDIT WHO IS THE SPANISH VERSION OF ROBIN HOOD.

LEGEND HOLDS THAT HE STORED HIS TREASURES IN THE CELLARS OF THIS BUILDING, WHICH DATES TO 1616.

THE RESTAURANT SERVES UP THE KIND OF HEARTY, GRILLED DISHES THAT ONCE SATISFIED THE STONEMASONS WHO BUILT THIS RESTAURANT'S STURDY WALLS.

Man: DO YOU WANT TO TRY?

PLEASE.

Maxa, voice-over: YOU CAN GET BY SPEAKING ENGLISH IN MADRID, BUT IT'S FUN TO PUT THAT HIGH SCHOOL SPANISH TO THE TEST.

TODAY, I'M LETTING MY FRIEND ANA DO ALL THE WORK.

[SPEAKING SPANISH] Maxa, voice-over: THE HOUSE SPECIALTY IS THE SUCKLING PIG THAT TAKES 3 HOURS TO PREPARE.

IN MADRID WE MAKE "CALLOS A LA MADRILENO."

THIS IS THE TRADITIONAL PLATE FROM SPAIN.

Maxa, voice-over: THIS TRIPE STEW, LONG A STAPLE FOR MADRID'S WORKING CLASS, IS NOW SERVED IN THE CITY'S BEST RESTAURANTS.

MADRID IS SYNONYMOUS WITH NIGHTLIFE.

KNOWN HERE AS "LA MARCHA," THE NIGHTLY RITUAL OF SOCIALIZING REACHES EXTRAVAGANT HEIGHTS.

EVERY EVENING 1,000 RESTAURANTS, BARS AND PUBLIC SQUARES COME ALIVE WITH THRONGS OF PEOPLE CONVENING OVER DINNER AND DRINKS.

TO THE REST OF SPAIN, THE PEOPLE OF MADRID ARE KNOWN AS "LOS GATOS," OR "THE CATS" BECAUSE OF THEIR NOCTURNAL WAYS.

THEY SELDOM EAT DINNER HERE BEFORE 10:00 AND THEY USUALLY HIT THE NIGHTCLUBS AFTER MIDNIGHT.

VISITORS SOMETIMES WONDER IF THERE ISN'T SOME UNWRITTEN LAW THAT SAYS THAT LOCALS MUST SPEND EVENINGS AWAY FROM HOME.

[FLAMENCO MUSIC PLAYING] WHEN IN MADRID, THE ONE "MUST-SEE" ENTERTAINMENT HAS TO BE FLAMENCO.

IT'S THE TRADITIONAL SONG AND DANCE OF THE GYPSIES OF SOUTHERN SPAIN, AND IT'S ONE OF THE COUNTRY'S GREATEST GIFTS TO MUSICAL ART.

FLAMENCO EVOLVED OVER THE YEARS TO INCLUDE ELEMENTS OF MOORISH INFLUENCE.

AND IN THE 19th CENTURY, IT WAS ALL THE RAGE WITH THE CAFE SOCIETY CROWD.

[SINGING IN SPANISH] OUTSIDE OF SOUTHERN SPAIN, MADRID IS THE BEST PLACE TO ENJOY THIS STYLE OF MUSIC.

THE CORE OF FLAMENCO IS VOICE ACCOMPANIED BY GUITAR.

ALTHOUGH DANCE IS NOT A REQUIRED ELEMENT, IT ADDS AN EXCITING TOUCH TO THESE EMOTIONAL PERFORMANCES.

[APPLAUSE] MADRID'S RANGE OF ACCOMMODATIONS COVERS EVERYTHING FROM INEXPENSIVE HOSTELS AND PENSIONS TO THE ULTIMATE IN LUXURY HOTELS.

THOSE IN SEARCH OF TRULY MAJESTIC ACCOMMODATIONS CAN DO NO BETTER THAN THE HOTEL RITZ.

LOCATED ACROSS THE STREET FROM THE PRADO, THIS IS A HOME-AWAY-FROM-HOME FOR EUROPEAN ROYALTY.

AT THE BEGINNING OF THE LAST CENTURY, KING ALFONSO XIII RETURNED FROM A TRIP THROUGH EUROPE INSPIRED BY THE PALACES THAT HE HAD VISITED.

THE KING AIMED TO BUILD A LUXURY HOTEL THAT WOULD RIVAL THOSE OF OTHER GREAT EUROPEAN CITIES, AND ENLISTED CESAR RITZ TO PERSONALLY SUPERVISE ITS CONSTRUCTION.

EVEN IF A ROOM HERE DOESN'T FIT INTO YOUR BUDGET, YOU CAN STILL STOP IN FOR A COOL DRINK AND ENJOY THE HOTEL'S GENTEEL STYLE.

FOR EVEN MORE OF GENTEEL MADRID, YOU CAN VISIT THE CONVENTO DE LAS DESCALZAS REALES.

ONCE A RELIGIOUS HIDEAWAY IN THE HEART OF OLD MADRID, IT NOW OFFERS A PUBLIC PEEK BEHIND THE WALLS OF A CONVENT FROM THE CITY'S EARLY YEARS.

IN THE MID-16th CENTURY, THIS WAS A SANCTUARY FOR WOMEN OF ROYAL BLOOD WHO CHOSE NOT TO MARRY OR WHO SIMPLY WANTED TO BE "THE BRIDE OF CHRIST".

SINCE THE WOMEN WHO CAME HERE BROUGHT WITH THEM DOWRIES, THE CONVENT BECAME QUITE WELL-TO-DO.

ITS EXQUISITE ART COLLECTION CONTAINS PAINTINGS BY TITIAN, AND THE WALLS ARE ADORNED WITH SUMPTUOUS TAPESTRIES DESIGNED BY RUBENS.

DESPITE THE CONVENT'S WEALTH OF ARTWORK, BY THE 20th CENTURY, THE SISTERS HERE WERE IN FINANCIAL STRAITS.

FINALLY, THE POPE GRANTED SPECIAL PERMISSION TO OPEN THE MONASTERIES BELONGING TO SPAIN'S TRUST AS MUSEUMS.

AND THE FRANCISCAN NUNS WHO LIVE HERE NOW ALLOW VISITORS INSIDE THIS PEACEFUL HAVEN FOR SEVERAL HOURS A DAY.

TAPESTRIES HAVE ALWAYS BEEN IMPORTANT TO MADRID'S UPPER CLASS.

IN 1720, PHILIP V ESTABLISHED THE ROYAL TAPESTRY FACTORY TO CATER TO THE SPANISH NOBILITY'S APPETITE FOR THE FINER THINGS IN LIFE.

HERE, SOME 70 WORKERS PRODUCE TAPESTRIES AND CARPETS USING 200-YEAR-OLD TECHNIQUES.

THE CENTURIES-OLD PROCESS OF MAKING EXQUISITE-- NOT TO MENTION EXPENSIVE-- TAPESTRIES IS STILL EXPERTLY CARRIED OUT.

THE FACTORY'S MOST FAMOUS EMPLOYEE WAS NONE OTHER THAN THE ARTIST GOYA HIMSELF, WHO WAS HIRED TO CREATE DRAWINGS-- OR "CARTOONS" AS THEY'RE CALLED HERE-- ON WHICH THE TAPESTRY PATTERNS WERE BASED.

WELL, GOYA IN THE 18th CENTURY PAINTED THE SKETCHES TO MAKE THE TAPESTRIES.

AND THEY ARE PREPARED ON THIS LOOM ON THE LEFT.

THEY ARE PREPARING A WORK TO MAKE ONE TAPESTRY FROM GOYA.

Maxa, voice-over: ALTHOUGH IT WAS CONSIDERED SOMEWHAT MENIAL WORK, GOYA'S DRAWINGS PROVIDED HIM A REASONABLE LIVING FOR ABOUT 20 YEARS.

TODAY, THE GOVERNMENT AND PRIVATE CUSTOMERS OFTEN BRING ANTIQUE CARPETS AND TAPESTRIES HERE FOR RESTORATION.

Gracia Flores: TO MATCH THE COLORS IS DIFFICULT, BECAUSE SOMETIMES THE CARPET, IT WAS MADE IN THE 18th OR 19th CENTURY.

Maxa, voice-over: THE ROYAL TAPESTRY WORKERS USE SPECIAL TECHNIQUES TO RETURN THESE VALUABLE PIECES TO THEIR FORMER GLORY.

AFTER THE INTENSITY OF MADRID'S ART AND CITY SIGHTS, A STROLL THROUGH RETIRO PARK IS A GREAT WAY TO UNWIND.

THE LARGE, LOVELY GARDENS ARE ALIVE WITH LOCALS ENJOYING THE DAZZLING SUNLIGHT AND THAT FAMOUS BLUE SKY.

WITH ITS HIGH ALTITUDE AND LANDLOCKED GEOGRAPHY, MADRID OFTEN EXPERIENCES WEATHER EXTREMES.

IN SUMMER, IT SWELTERS UNDER UNRELENTING HEAT, AND THE WINTERS CAN BE BITTERLY COLD.

SO, CHOOSE YOUR VACATION TIME JUDICIOUSLY.

MAY AND OCTOBER ARE IDEAL TIMES TO VISIT MADRID, WHEN THE CLIMATE'S GENERALLY WARM AND DRY.

AT RETIRO, YOU CAN RENT A BOAT AND WHILE AWAY THE AFTERNOON.

ONCE PART OF A ROYAL ESTATE, THIS PARK IS NOW ONE OF THE GREAT DEMOCRATIC SYMBOLS OF THE CITY.

AFTER ITS GOLDEN AGE, MADRID SAW SEVERAL HUNDRED YEARS OF SLOW DECLINE.

MUCH OF THE LAST CENTURY WAS SPENT UNDER THE THUMB OF FRANCO'S FASCIST REGIME.

BUT WITH HIS DEATH IN 1975, MADRID EXPERIENCED AN ECONOMIC AND CREATIVE REBIRTH.

EDUCATING SPANIARDS ABOUT THE NEED TO PROTECT THE NATURAL WORLD IS THE AIM OF THE FAUNIA ENVIRONMENTAL PARK.

YES, YOU MIGHT BE SURPRISED TO FIND A POLAR HABITAT RIGHT HERE IN THE HEART OF SPAIN.

FAUNIA, SEVERAL MILES OUTSIDE THE CITY CENTER, ISN'T A CONVENTIONAL ZOO.

IT'S A COLLECTION OF CONSERVATORIES THAT MIMIC DIFFERENT ECOSYSTEMS.

HERE, MORE THAN 4,000 ANIMALS LIVE AMONG 72,000 TREES AND SHRUBS.

THE PARK USES SPECIAL TECHNOLOGY TO RECREATE THE WORLD'S MAJOR CLIMATIC ZONES.

THE IDEA IS TO MAINTAIN THE ANIMALS' NATURAL HABITATS WHILE LETTING VISITORS GET UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL.

ONE OF THE GREAT THINGS ABOUT MADRID IS ITS LOCATION.

FASCINATING SITES RING THE CITY AND THERE ARE SEVERAL EASY SIDE TRIPS THAT YOU CAN MAKE FROM HERE.

THERE'S EL ESCORIAL, BEAUTIFUL SEGOVIA, AND THE WALLED CITY OF AVILA, TO NAME A FEW.

BUT IF YOU HAVE TIME FOR JUST ONE SIDE TRIP, I'D RECOMMEND TOLEDO.

THIS FORTIFIED HILLTOP CITY THAT WAS ONCE SPAIN'S CAPITAL EXUDES HISTORY AND ART.

AS AN URBAN CENTER FOR MORE THAN 2,000 YEARS, TOLEDO HAS A STRIKING CULTURAL CHARACTER.

SIMPLY WANDERING ALONG ITS NARROW COBBLED STREETS MIGHT BE THE BEST WAY TO APPRECIATE THE CITY.

THERE WAS AN IMPORTANT PREHISTORIC SETTLEMENT HERE EVEN WHEN THE ROMANS ARRIVED IN THE 2nd CENTURY B.C.

LATER, THE VISIGOTHS CAME AND CLAIMED THIS AS THE SEAT OF THEIR KINGDOM.

BY THE 8th CENTURY, THE CONQUERING MOORS ESTABLISHED TOLEDO AS A GREAT CENTER OF EDUCATION AND RELIGION.

BECAUSE THE MOORS WERE UNUSUALLY TOLERANT OF OTHER RELIGIONS, TOLEDO PROVIDED A RARE EXAMPLE OF JEWS, CHRISTIANS, AND MUSLIMS LIVING SIDE BY SIDE.

THE TOWN GREW INTO A PROSPEROUS AND CULTURALLY RICH CENTER.

BUT AFTER THE CATHOLIC KINGS OVERTHREW THE MOORS, TOLEDO FELL UNDER A CLOUD OF RELIGIOUS INTOLERANCE.

BOTH MUSLIMS AND JEWS WERE EVENTUALLY EXPELLED FROM THE AREA.

TOLEDO'S PRIDE IS ITS HUGE CATHEDRAL, BUILT IN STAGES BETWEEN 1226 AND 1493.

THE CATHEDRAL'S MASSIVE DIMENSIONS REFLECT ITS STATUS AS THE COUNTRY'S SPIRITUAL SYMBOL.

THE INTERIOR IS AWASH IN STUNNING DECORATION AND WORKS BY FAMOUS ARTISTS.

THE SACRISTY HOLDS EL GRECO'S PAINTING OF "THE DENUDING OF CHRIST," WHICH THE ARTIST PAINTED ESPECIALLY FOR THE CATHEDRAL.

TODAY THE CATHEDRAL CONTINUES TO SERVE AS A MAGNET FOR HISTORIC AND RELIGIOUS RITUAL.

IN FACT, MASSES ARE STILL CONDUCTED USING A CHRISTIAN SERVICE THAT WAS PRACTICED DURING THE MOORISH OCCUPATION OF SPAIN.

TOLEDO IS A GOLD MINE FOR JEWELRY LOVERS, WHO WILL FIND ENDLESS SHOPS ADVERTISING "DAMASCENE."

FOR CENTURIES, THE EGYPTIANS, GREEKS AND ROMANS PRACTICED THIS ART OF INTERLACING GOLD AND SILVER THREAD ONTO IRON.

THE TECHNIQUE WAS LATER INTRODUCED INTO SPAIN BY THE MOORS.

THIS IS THE KIND OF JEWELRY THAT TOLEDO IS FAMOUS FOR AND IT'S BEEN AROUND SINCE THE MOORS WERE HERE.

THEY FIRST TAKE A PIECE OF STEEL THAT'S DIPPED INTO ACID.

THEY ENCRUST IT WITH DESIGNS.

AND THEN LATER THEY PUT PIECES OF EITHER 18 KARAT, 24 KARAT, AND SILVER THREAD.

AND IT'S ALL ENCRUSTED BY HAND.

ONE NEEDS TO HAVE EXTREMELY GOOD VISION AND EXTREMELY STEADY HANDS.

Maxa: IT WOULD TAKE ME A LIFETIME.

HA HA HA!

Maxa, voice-over: FOR YEARS, TOLEDO TRADED ON ITS REPUTATION AS A CONSUMMATE SWORD-MAKING CENTER.

FROM THE 15th TO 17th CENTURIES, A PROMINENT BLADE MAKING INDUSTRY FLOURISHED HERE, AND EVEN TODAY THE CITY STILL SUPPLIES FILMMAKERS AND COLLECTORS AROUND THE WORLD WITH WEAPONRY.

MEDIEVAL SWORDSMEN KNEW THAT THE OUTCOME OF A FIGHT DEPENDED NOT ONLY ON THE FIGHTER'S PERSONAL ABILITY, BUT ALSO ON THE QUALITY OF HIS WEAPON.

AND THE EXCEPTIONAL HARDNESS OF TOLEDO SWORDS MADE THEM THE MOST DESIRED WEAPONS IN THE WORLD.

CENTRAL SPAIN WELCOMES THE WORLD WITH ITS HEAD HELD HIGH.

THE PROUD CAPITAL OF MADRID STILL HAS THE SWAGGER OF A ONCE MIGHTY EMPIRE.

YOU CAN FEEL ITS INTENSITY-- IN THE GLITTERING PLAZAS, THE BRUSHSTROKES OF THE SPANISH MASTERS, AND THE BEAT OF FLAMENCO.

AND IT'S FOREVER REACHING FOR THE SKY.

AS THEY SAY HERE IN SPAIN, "FROM MADRID TO HEAVEN."

IF YOU'RE READY TO EXPERIENCE SPANISH CULTURE ON A TRULY GRAND SCALE, THEN THIS IS YOUR KIND OF TOWN.

I'M RUDY MAXA.

HASTA LUEGO!

Narrator: ALL VIDEOS AND DVDs OF "SMART TRAVELS" ARE $24.95 EACH PLUS SHIPPING.

CALL 800-866-7425 FOR THE TWO EPISODE DVD OR VIDEO ON BARCELONA AND COSTA BRAVA AND MADRID AND TOLEDO.

DETAILS OF ALL OF OUR TRAVEL VIDEOS, DVDs, AND BEST GUIDEBOOKS ARE ON THE WEB AT SMARTTRAVELS.TV.

MAJOR CREDIT CARDS ARE ACCEPTED.

TO ORDER, CALL THIS TOLL-FREE NUMBER OR VISIT US ON THE WEB.

CAPTIONING MADE POSSIBLE BY U.S.

DEPARTMENT OF EDUCATION CAPTIONED BY THE NATIONAL CAPTIONING INSTITUTE --www.ncicap.org-- Announcer: MAJOR CORPORATE SUPPORT FOR "SMART TRAVELS" IS PROVIDED BY EXPEDIA.COM, A TRAVEL WEB SITE THAT OFFERS TRAVELERS A VARIETY OF WAYS TO CREATE THE TRIP THEY'RE LOOKING FOR, INCLUDING FLIGHTS, HOTELS, AND VACATION PACKAGES.

EXPEDIA.COM.

DON'T JUST TRAVEL.

TRAVEL RIGHT.

TRANSATLANTIC AND EUROPEAN FLIGHTS PROVIDED IN PART BY BMI, AN AWARD WINNING FULL SERVICE AIRLINE BASED IN UNITED KINGDOM.

WITH MORE THAN 2,000 FLIGHTS A WEEK TO OVER 35 DESTINATIONS, BMI FLIES MORE THAN 9 MILLION PASSENGERS A YEAR.